Your Questions

I’ve heard of a “rain switch”, do they work and where can I get one if they are effective?

I don’t have a lot of time to fiddle with my irrigation system.  It seems to work ok, but I need to save money where I can on my utilities.  Is there something quick and easy I can do?

Every time the sprinklers come on water runs down the gutter at the bottom of the hill. Our neighbors said we should rip out the sprinklers and put in drip irrigation, do we have to do that?

I want to plant some spreading groundcovers on the slope behind my house, what is the best way to irrigate them?

We moved into a house with a Toro ECx timer. The book that comes with it is confusing… can you help me set it up?

I have an automatic irrigation system and the irrigation is coming on every day.  Is this right, how do I know how often to irrigate?

Our gardener “fixed” our irrigation system last week, and now there is a different kind of pop-up sprayer in the lawn.  Is this right; does this make a difference?

How do I know when I have the right amount of sprinklers?

John's Answers

Ted M.  from Springdale, Arkansas writes

“I don’t have a lot of time to fiddle with my irrigation system.  It seems to work ok, but I need to save money where I can on my utilities.  Is there something quick and easy I can do?”

Irrigation Essential's Response:

Ted,
I’m going to assume that you have adequate coverage of what you are irrigating – you didn’t mention dry/wet spots. 

Scheduling. 

Lets also assume that your peak water need (mid summer) schedule is fairly accurate.   When you turn your system on in the spring, program about 25% less irrigation events (days on) than your peak water need.  Gradually increase (days on) to peak need.  After July, do the reverse – the days are shorter, and average temperatures are dropping – ratchet the water down to a minimum of 20% less by September, and a sharper drop after September.  Plant water need follows a “bell curve” to peak summer – by doing what I described you are irrigating to crop need – which changes through the year.

Two things! 

• Use a soil probe (mail order for a soil probe: http://www.gemplers.com or http://www.benmeadows.com) or shovel to see how deep the water is in the soil before/after irrigation.   (Are you filling the root zone?)
• Periodically INSPECT the system to make sure nothing is dysfunctional or broken. See our “InspectTestAdjust” article for more detail.

eMail us back with more specific information, and I can “fine tune” an answer that will further save you money next year on your utilities, without any sacrifice in the look of your landscape.

• What type of hardware:  spray pop-ups, or rotors?  Manufacturer?  Their programmed run times?
• Controller:  Manufacturer & model and is it mounted indoors or outdoors?
• Do you see any “runoff” or puddles after normal irrigation?
• Your zip code (I can obtain your weather and soil data)?
• Do you fertilize your landscape?  How often, with what?
• Who do you buy water from—the name of your local water utility?

Where To Buy

We recommend buying from irrigation supply stores.  You will get a wider range of better quality products than are available at the big box hardware stores.

In your area we recommend Ewing Irrigation at 3902 Kelley Ave., Springdale.   Their phone is 479.927.9530.

Soil Biology and Horticultural Practices–Easy Steps to a Beautiful Landscape!

You can use less water, and have a healthier landscape by building your soil.  Please see our article “Living Soil”  for more detail on soil building.  Also, key horticulture basics:

• Use mulch over bare soil areas
• Cutting your lawn -- shorter in Spring & Fall, longer in the Summer
• Use a mulching mower, or simply make two passes and leave the clippings on the lawn (mow when the turf is dry) – this builds nitrogen in the soil!
• Use organic fertilizers, and eliminate the use of pesticides!  The water that migrates off your landscape takes elements of whatever you have applied with it!

System Management • Posted on 02/23/2009 •   Permalink

Many times, seemingly simple questions have answers that span several disciplines (design theory, installation practices, horticulture and soil science issues), and can become burdensome for someone to try to take in all at once.

To facilitate understanding, we group our information in three broad categories: 

System Management — Irrigation scheduling.  Hitting the “moving target” of plant water need as it changes throughout the growing season.

Delivery System — Spray heads, rotors, emitters, etc.  We try to explain the principles behind how they function, and make sense out of the many look-alike products on the market.

Soil Biology — Living soils and horticultural practices play a very significant role in how effective irrigation can be, and the viability of the landscape.  Think of growing roots, not plants!  Healthy roots will ensure a beautiful garden!